Food & Home - June
2006
By Meg Russell
Photographs by
Diane and Christoph Heierli
Tapas has never been bigger and it’s all happening at Fork
tapas bar in Long Street, Cape Town.
The world’s obsession with tapas is showing no signs of slowing
down. And since Fork opened its doors earlier this year, it is
attracting a vibrant crowd ready to enjoy the different taste sensations
of
tapas.
Restaurateurs Ed Saunders and JD Haasbroek are the men behind
Fork. They met in London two years ago while they were working
in the restaurant trade, and quickly discovered a mutual passion
for tapas. At the time, Ed had his own Italian tapas restaurant
in Soho called Aperitivo and was looking for the right opportunity
to create something similar in Cape Town. "We love the idea
of good food and wine shared in casual, laid-back surroundings," he
says. "The joy of tapas is that it’s relaxed and informal,
perfect for a seaside lifestyle."
Tapas, which literally means a cover or lid, is thought to have
come from the old habit in the Middle Ages of placing a slice
of bread or a piece of ham on top of one's wine glass, perhaps
to
keep insects out. This edible "lid" was the precursor
of modern-day tapas intended as appetizers or a nibble before
the meal. Today the key to tapas (and the ever-popular Asian version, dim
sum) is about flavour and sharing, where fun-loving foodies are
willing to stash away their dinner plates and divide supper between
side plates and little bowls. "Which also explains why we
called the restaurant Fork," JD adds. "We serve mouthfuls
of food you don’t have to cut, but can pick up and pop in
your mouth."
Situated in a restored double-storey Victorian building on buzzing
Long Street, the restaurant is stylish and unpretentious, making
it the kind of place you could adopt as your friendly neighbourhood
regular.
Downstairs you’ll find a bar and five tables set against
an original exposed brick wall with a long pew for seating and
antique lamps on a pulley system for moody glow. Upstairs, there
are more tables and if you’re early, you could grab the outside
balcony which has two white leather day beds overlooking Long Street,
perfect for pre-dinner drinks.
On the menu is a selection of vegetarian, seafood, meat, and salad
tapas. "We’ve introduced local, Indian, Moroccan and
Asian flavours as we’re not strictly serving traditional
Spanish or Italian tapas," explains JD. "We’ve
gone for a contemporary twist using interesting global flavours."
Once you’ve settled in, enjoy a plate of complimentary bruschetta
topped with vitello tonnato or a spicy tomato salsa. Then let the
fun begin. For starters, cured meats including coppa, Serrano ham,
salami and Grana Padano Parmesan with a sweet balsamic glaze dipping
sauce and ciabatta are a local favourite. Another highlight is
the grilled tiger prawns wrapped in pancetta, but the pasta roll
(a good vegetarian option) with Emmental, aubergine, mushrooms,
rocket and béchamel sauce is a knockout. Next up try the
classic Italian pizzaiola with tender slices of beef fillet, capers,
homemade tomato sauce and grilled Mozzarella. The well-seasoned
grilled lamb cutlets with a cumin and coriander sauce are also
sublime as is the cheese fondue served with chorizo.
" The menu works in two ways," explains Ed. "Either
choose to make an evening out of it by ordering at least eight
different dishes during the course of a night, or simply order
one dish, like the mini kudu fillets served with an orange potato
purée and chilli spinach. Throw in a side order of homemade
deep-fried zucchini chips and you have a satisfying main course."
If you’re
feeling indulgent, the flourless chocolate cake is a must-try on
the small dessert menu.
The winelist is comprehensive and reasonably priced, its focus
to introduce smaller producers and wine regions. "We have
tried to source the best grape varietals from wine regions around
the country, from the Klein Karoo to the southern Cape."
So if you’re
looking for a fun dining experience, get together a group of friends,
order at least three dishes each and indulge
in some serious sharing and plate swapping.
Most dishes cost between R30 and R50;
desserts are about R25 each.
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